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Hand
knitting, like weaving, is a craft with deep roots in the
life of the Irish Countryside, the Aran sweater, in particular,
having a rich history. It was Oscar Wilde who said (of the
Aran Sweater) "it comes not only from the hands, but
fromthe head and the heart too."
He was certainly right about the heart because to live and
prosper on the Aran Isles of which there are three, Inishmore, Inishman and Inisheer, not
only required a stout heart but also strong constitution.
Set in the Atlantic Ocean at the mouth of Galway
Bay the islands are the most Westerly edge of Europe. The environment is harsh, the soil
poor .The islanders eaked a living from farming, fishing and the harvesting of kelp and
seaweed.
Warm protective clothing was essential in such a
windswept climate and the locals wore several layers. They took great pride in this
distinctive clothing, their badge of identity.
Both the men and women wore knitted blue socks with
white feet and heels and "pampooties" as shoes. It was said that upwards of
forty pairs of these shoes could be made from a single hide. Whilst the men wore dark
flannel shirts under v-necked "bainin" jackets with waistcoats over the ladies
wore equally home spun materials in the form of jackets pulled together with
"crios" (braided girdles) over which they had "shawleens" or shawls to
complement their brightly coloured petticoats.
Not part of this distinctive dress the Aran sweater
only emerged in the 1900's when the fishermen began wearing the white heavily patterned
sweater ( Folklore has it that when disaster struck at sea the victims could be identified
by the stitches embodied in the sweaters they were wearing)
Knitting
skills were an everyday part of island life and it was said
at the time when the islanders began selling their sweaters
that this was one home craft which kept the smoke going up
the chimney. Young and old came together for the communal
activity of knitting often using goose quills or bicycle spokes.
Skills and patterns were passed on, nothing was written down
and the idea of sizing had not occurred to these ladies. Quite
simply if their husband happened to be of large proportion
they knit a big sweater.
So evolved skills which in turn produced patterns
of great beauty and simplicity as befitted those who lived on the islands. Symbolic and
dignified the Aran stitch (of which Sheila Hollingsworth in her book on Aran knitting
refers to no less than 71) was both traditional and religious. The Trinity Stitch created
by working three stitches from one and one stitch from three is thought to signify the
Holy Trinity.
Children of these families didn't often get
anything new having to do with hand-me-downs. Thus when they were given a new sweater the
neighbours would say to them as we now say to you "go ma tu is go gcaithe tue"
may you live and wear it well.
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